# Whelping Box



## LET82 (Feb 24, 2009)

I have a litter due at the end of March and wanted to build a whelping box. Does anyone have any good plans for one? And about how much should I expect to spend?


----------



## smith family kennels (Jan 10, 2009)

Here are a couple I looked up

The Whelping Box

Our first whelping box was 4 ft. by 4 ft., large enough for you, the bitch and the pups.

If you just have to make your own, the walls should be at least 4 inches high, with the height depending on whether you have other dogs in the house. Most bitches will not tolerate other dogs around when she has pups. He maternal hormones and instincts are fully engaged and they may attack other dogs to keep them away from the pups.

You can build a whelping box out of a couple of sheets of plywood. The base is 48x46½ inches. This is raised two inches off the floor by 1x2 studs placed at the edges and in the middle. The space underneath lets us put a heating pad on one side to provide warmth, while creating a cooler side.

The sides are 48x7 inches, placed overlapping on outside next to the furring strips to create a square box. With the space underneath and the thickness of the plywood, the interior sides are about 4½ inches high. Four and one-half inch wide pieces are placed around the edge, resulting in a 3½ inch overhang. This provides a safe area for puppies where the bitch can't lie on them You can either miter the ends or butt them. In either case, a brace or angle iron should be used for extra support.

The pieces are glued and screwed together to increase strength. The entire box is coated with polyurethane to ease clean-up. A removable (to ease cleaning) rubber mat is laid across the bottom to provide footing and stability for the towels, etc. used to line the box. Frequent changes are needed to maintain cleanliness and you will be doing lots of washes.

With this design, you can sit on the edge of the box without fear of collapse and there is room in the box for the bitch to nurse while you sit with her. Clean-up is relatively easy; requiring vacuuming loose food and damp-wiping spills.

To build the box we described, you will need:

1 piece of 4x8 foot, ½ or ¾ inch plywood, cut as follows:

1 piece 48x46½ inches

4 pieces 48x7 inches

4 pieces 48x4½ inches (to be cut depending on whether you use butt or mitred ends)

A total of 20 feet of 1x2 inch furring strips cut to appropriate lengths

About 40 screws 1½ to 2 inches long to secure the floor to the furring strips and the sides to the top of the box.

About 20 screws 1¼ to 1½ inches long to secure the sides to the furring strips.

Carpenter's Glue

A quart of polyurethane

A 3-inch paint brush

Turpentine or mineral spirits

Several sheets of sandpaper

Lots of towels, wash clothes, lambskin pads and old blankets, both for the whelping box and the puppy box.

Whelping Box Construction Plans

Building a Whelping Box The Easy Way
I have built many whelping boxes that didn't work very well. I made the mistakes of making the box too large, and of not using heavy duty lumber. The boxes were a pain to keep clean and looked so awful after being used, that I would throw them away and build a new one for each litter.

My newest box, now ready for its third use, was simple to build, easy to clean, and still looks great!

Go to your local lumberyard or Home Depot type store. You will need one sheet of 3/4" plywood. Get a good grade, one that is smooth on both sides. The sheet comes in a standard size of 4' by 8'. Ask the lumberman to cut the wood in half, so you have two pieces, 4' by 4'. Then have him cut one of the sections into three equal parts. They will be 16" sections 4' long. These will be three sides of the box. By using 3/4" plywood, the box will be sturdy enough for you to get in it with your dog.

Most lumberyards/Home Depot type stores will give you three cuts of lumber for free, then they charge 25 for additional cuts. Its sure easier than cutting it yourself! For the front panel of the box, you can use a 1"x12' board, or two 1"x6' (one on top of the other). This is tall enough to keep the puppies in, but Momma dog can easily step over it. If you have a place to store the box, assembled, use nails to put it together. If your storage is limited, use screws so you can easily take the box apart.

Before you assemble the box, cover the inside panels with contact paper. It is cheap, comes in lots of nice colors and patterns and makes cleaning the box a breeze! If you cover the panels before assembly, you will only be dealing with a flat surface -- it's really easy! I use a little glue to secure the edges of the paper (I bend the edges around the sawn parts of the wood to cover them). The sections can then be nailed, or screwed together. If the paper won't stick well to the sawn edges, a staple gun will help. My husband suggested trying vinyl flooring instead of contact paper. It's another option you may want to consider. Run a bead of silicon sealant around the seams. It will prevent leaks.

The contact paper takes a lot of abuse. With my old wooden boxes, they became stained and never cleaned up to my satisfaction. With the contact paper, no odors sink into the wood and the box stays looking new.

I use a whelping nest (by T. E. Scott), that requires a large hole to be made in the floor of the box. The hole is made before assembly. The whelping nest works very well; the puppies cuddle up in it. It hangs below the floor level, so I use 2x4's to elevate the box.

For bedding, I use the washable fake sheepskins that have a rubber backing. They don't skid around the box and provide excellent footing for the dam and pups. My pups are on their feet the same day they are born. The sheepskins are easily washed (and bleached) and despite hard usage, they hold up very well.

I do not use a puppy guard rail. If you want one, add a 2x4 railing to the inside of the box after it's put together. Two railings will be slightly higher than the other two, unless you are talented with a saw and can cut on a diagonal that will meet up correctly at each corner. Place the railing about 5" up from the bottom of the box. I have never used a rail as I watch my litters closely, and with the whelping nest the pups stay near the center. I have noticed too, that when a rail is used, the pups stand up on it to look out of the box instead of backing up to where they can see out. I don't think that standing up on those soft, baby hind legs can be beneficial! When you start feeding the puppies, food is dropped onto the railing; as well as other puppy messes, that calls for lots of scrubbing! I like to keep cleanup as easy as I can!

dee's WHELPING BOX


----------



## LET82 (Feb 24, 2009)

smith family kennels said:


> Here are a couple I looked up
> 
> The Whelping Box
> 
> ...


Thanks....this will def help. I think we are going to try and build one in the next few weeks. I was using a kiddie pool lol....it works but a whelping box is more ideal.


----------



## Abel92701 (Jan 26, 2009)

That's cool, do know where I can buy one?

Thanks 
Abel.


----------

